It might surprise you to know black is associated with Valentine’s too. In Korea, “Black Day” was created by singles who did not receive gifts. Singles celebrate by eating black noodles covered in bean paste.
Today roses and chocolates are the signature gifts of Valentine’s Day. However, in the 18th century gentlemen gave a pair of gloves to their ladies of choice. If she chose to wear them it was a signal that she was indeed interested
The pandemic is ending. As we take off our masks and move back into dressing up, wearing makeup and styling our hair again don’t forget to get back into skin care routines too to reveal a new fresh face. History shows us some simple steps that still help us put our best face forward today.
Women in Ancient Rome wore face masks to cleanse their skin and often made them using natural ingredients such as olive oil, animal fat, rosewater, eggs, and almond oil. The oils were used as moisturizers to help with dry skin. They also developed the use of cold creams which contributes to some of the skincare techniques we currently use today.
The Egyptians also had interesting skincare techniques. For example, they would bath in cold water every day. They also used soap concoctions made of olive oil and clay. Milk and honey were used as a soothing face mask. The Egyptians took great care to cleanse the skin because they were obsessed with personal hygiene.
In Ancient India the use of Ayurveda was discovered. It’s a natural system of medicine, that is used to balance the body, mind and spirit. Throughout history, the Hindu have focused on anti-ageing and good health to maintain a youthful appearance. Ayurveda products and practices can be found in many spas today and means “knowledge of life.” Herbal ingredients, powders and oils have been part of the Hindu daily skincare routine for over 5,000 years.
In China people used bath beans made of native herbs, fragrance oils and soybean powder to freshen their skin. Pale white skin was prized and desired. To achieve the desired “brightness” the Chinese turned to lead, proving to be a deadly choice for many.
During the Middle Ages, long necks and high foreheads were considered a look of beauty. Women would often pluck their hairlines to make their forehead look longer. They used hog grease to moisten the skin and believed it could prevent the spread of diseases such as the plague.
By the 14th century white skin was a common beauty standard. Everyone wanted to make their skin look pale and bright. As a result, ladies used blaunchet, a type of ground wheat,to lighten their complexion. Sour milk was another option used to achieve this lighter complexion.
During the Victorian Era, more toxic chemicals were used to cleanse the skin. At the time, people did not know that these chemicals were toxic and likely did not know that these chemicals were actually the cause of many deaths. Some of the chemicals used were ammonia and mercury lead which both can cause a lot of damage to the body.
During The 20th century, regular skin care routines became more popular especially in America. New and branded products of moisturizers, soaps and masks began to be marketed to consumers. However, tan skin became the popular skin tone. Spray tans and powders made their way onto the market. Needless to say, everyone wanted to have a more golden glow.
During the 50’s the nuclear family became the goal to reach. Everyone wanted the perfect house with the white picket fence and women were expected to look their “feminine” best which included regular facial cleansing routines and shaving body hair. By the sixties, a healthy complexion was believed to be achieved through natural vitamins and supplements.
We have a worldwide history of caring for the largest organ on the body, our skin. Many methods we use today began generations ago. For example, we still use vitamins and suntan lotions. We also still use cleansing masks and creams to keep a youthful glow. However, we are more careful not to use dangerous ingredients such as lead making products of today safer, more regulated and more effective.
Even though skin care has changed throughout the centuries, we still strive to achieve a fresh, youthful look to our skin. After a year of covering up and hiding behind a mask, it’s time to put our freshest face forward. Share your skin care routine or favorite products in the comments below.
As we are hopefully nearing the end of the pandemic, the mask is happily becoming part of our past. However, the historical track of this face covering reaches far beyond medical purposes.
The earliest example of the mask is connected to rituals by people in Africa who used them to communicate with spirits. They were made of many different shapes and sizes and each African tribe had their own signature form. Inuit tribes in the Pacific Northeast made their mask out of leather, wood, and feathers with movable parts. These masks represented unity with humanity, their ancestors, and the beast they hunted. In Oceania, where they were big on ancestorial worship, they made strong big mask in honor of those who came before them. Ancient Aztecs in Laten America, used masks to cover up the dead. Initially they used leather, but later copper and gold were preferred. Ancient Greeks used their mask for theater during the renaissance period. Japan also used Kabuki masks for theatre as well.
Medical masks have a long history too. For example, during the 17th century plague, epidemic doctors wore bird-like masks to cover up. At the time, the disease was thought to be spread by bad odors in the air requiring doctors to be in full face cover ups with extended beaks to aide in breathing. During the flu epidemic of 1918, surgeons started wearing masks while operating on patients. Doctors also advised the public to wear masks as well to prevent further spread of the virus. A mandate that was not popular. People were dubious about the mask’s effectiveness. However, in Japan it was the opposite. They embraced the wearing of masks seeing it as an effective use of modern medical technology.
This scenario is similar to when the current pandemic first hit in America. Many were skeptical about the pandemic and about wearing mask. Others conformed in hopes it would keep themselves and others safe. Luckily, because of all our effort’s, things are starting to get back to normal. We can take off the masks and see smiles again.
Now that our masks are being removed, we can put a fresh face forward. Next time we’ll discuss the history of makeup.
During the pandemic, you may have been forced to spend more time at home. Many of you have rediscovered simple at home activities like cooking. How does cooking relate to fashion? Well, the most essential fashion statement made for cooking is the apron. This iconic garment has a long history of use beyond the kitchen.
The word apron was originally derived from the French word ‘naperon,’ meaning small cloth and had no connection to today’s kitchen or cooking use. Used as a cover garment, it was originally intended as a loincloth. In ancient Crete, the apron is seen draped around figures of the Fertility Goddess, while in ancient Egypt the Pharaohs often had their aprons incrusted with jewels.
During the middle-ages aprons became more utilitarian and were worn by common workers and tradesmen. Cobblers wore black aprons as to not stain their clothes while working on shoes. However, some noble lads wore fancy aprons with their gowns as well. By the 16th century aprons became a fashion statement and have gone up and down in popularity ever since. Even Natives wore aprons for both practical and ceremonial reasons while pilgrims wore aprons as a symbol of hospitality.
During the 1940s and through the war years, families were commonly separated. After WWII, homecooked meals and being together were more appreciated and the apron became the symbol of the suburban housewife. People were prioritizing family and staying at home much like we have experienced during the pandemic.
Over time Men’s aprons were made for grilling while women’s aprons were made for cooking and baking. By 1960s the image of the housewife became less favorable, and women wanted more opportunities beyond the kitchen. So, aprons went out of style.
During the pandemic, people were spending more time at home, and cooking their own meals once again. The apron has made a big comeback with many styles for women and men.
Half apron: small piece of fabric that extends from the waist to mid thigh
Bib apron: apron that covers the chest and ties around to neck
Cross back apron: aprons that feature straps crossing in the back
Pinafore: includes extra over the shoulder decorations such as ruffles or ribbons
As I researched this topic, I found many people have emotional memories connected to aprons. Whether it was the first garment they learned to sew or memories of grandmothers in aprons baking cookies and cakes, the apron has a place in history and in our hearts.
Do you wear an apron? Do you have an apron memory? Tell us your apron stories or show us your new or vintage aprons in the comments below.
Enjoyed the summer with all of you. I am settling back into my second year at Mercyhurst so taking a little break to regroup. I’ll be back with more fashion history soon. Thanks for your interest and support.
Usually, I write my blog on an article of clothing and talk about its history. Today however, I’m taking a break from my usual format to share with you my visit to the historic Biltmore Estate in North Carolina, which actually does have an interesting historical fashion angle as well as a family connection for me.
Near the turn of the last century, the Vanderbilt family hired the worlds most skilled architects to build a luxury mansion in North Carolina.
Mr. & Mrs. Joseph Worrall
Chair built by Joseph
We decided to visit because my ancestor, Joseph Worrall, is said to have been one of the many carpenters hired to build this magnificent home. It is said, through family stories, that Joseph worked on the spiral staircase located in the library, which was George Vanderbilt’s favorite room. We also learned, through family stories, that Joseph made chairs and tables for the workers to rest and eat lunch during the construction years. One of those chairs sits in the corner of our home today along with a few other pieces of his master carpentry.
Before we visited the actual mansion, we had the opportunity to view a special exhibit featured at the estate based on the hit TV show Downton Abbey. The TV series chronicles the lives and struggles of the wealthy Crawley Family and their house servants during the 1800’s and would perhaps resemble the Vanderbilt’s as well. This exhibit showed the stark contrast between the family, the servants, women and minorities during this time in history.
The focus of the exhibit was the lifestyle and history of the era which cannot overlook the fashions of the day. For fans of the show, you might recognize some of the memorable garments worn by the characters which were part of this exhibit. For me, it was a detailed look at the fashion of the day. These garments were on loan from the show, but true to the era, similar styles could have been worn by the Vanderbilt’s and their guests as well.
The exhibit began with fashions for the lady of the house. This first outfit has a blue Sunday hat, paired with a blue, embroidered, floor length dress. It was worn by Violet Crawly, who was the Matriarch of the house in the series.
In contrast, another section of the exhibit was dedicated to the servant’s required uniforms. The Head Maid and Butler were in charge of everyone and dressed accordingly. The head maid of this household has a white button-down shirt paired with a floor length skirt. To finish off the look, there was a long black overcoat with a watch in the pocket in order to check the time and make sure the other servants were where they needed to be.
The Head Butler required a white button-down shirt with a black overcoat, black pants and a tie. He also had a watch, as promptness was expected at all times. The other servants such as the cooks and kitchen help wore simple floor length dresses with aprons tied around them because the work was fast and dirty.
Other servants were required to answer the bell board, which was kind of like a telephone room where the bells would let each servant know which room they were needed in and who was requesting a service. The female servants wore long, blue, floor length dresses with a belt around the waist and buttons on the top. The men would wear the traditional butler suit and a tie, but without the watch.
The highlight of the Downton Abbey exhibit was of course the evening dresses. During this time period, dresses had a more boyish figure to them in order to stray away from the restricting and repressive corset. This, as a result, made the older generation despise the younger generations choice in fashion. Here are a few of the dresses that we saw at the exhibit.
One of the dresses that caught my eye was a teal, long, floor length, strapless dress with white gloves. It had a matching waist band with sparkling embroidery on the top. Next was a crimson red, maxi length dress with pointy toed black shoes to match as well as black gloves. The third gown is a blue, long sleeve, maxi length dress and matching blue shoes. The accessories were a silver tiara, a silver necklace and pure white gloves. The head to toe detail of each gown with its beading and delicate fabrics shows the effort place on formal wear during that era.
We ended our visit with a tour through the actual Biltmore home. There were many rooms with amazing features but I’m sharing a few of my favorites.
First, of course is the library which was Mr. Vanderbilt’s favorite room as well. He loved to read and had books of many languages in his collection. The staircase that my great-great- great- grandfather we believe may have had a hand in making is located there as well. It is delicately carved and leads up to the second level of the library. We just gazed at the beauty of this amazing woodwork.
Another favorite room of mine was the dining room where the family and their guests held formal events. I could imagine them dressed in formal gowns, gloves and jewelry for dinners that would last 2-3 hours. The dinners were less about eating and more about socializing. There were often 6 courses to their meal and the dinners were all about entertaining their guests.
The next room we entered was Mr. Vanderbilt’s bedroom. The bed appeared to be small but only because it was set inside one of the biggest rooms in the home.
The tour ended in the Halloween room. This basement space was originally a storage room, but one night, when the Vanderbilt’s hosted a New Year’s Eve party, they invited the guests to paint the walls. They painted bats, spooky houses, and flowers but none of them were based on Halloween. In fact, they were based on songs from a popular German play of the time period. It was one of my favorite rooms.
I can understand why the history of the Biltmore is well studied. For me, the trip combined my two favorite subjects of history and fashion with a bonus family connection that made it even more interesting. I’m so glad I got to see it for myself.
Joseph Worrall made this inlaid wood table which we have in our foyer.
The next time you slip on your favorite summer sandal, you won’t take this easy style for granted as you discover its complex, historical path. The history of sandals has deep-rooted origins in a number of countries with so many variations that’s it’s hard to pin-point one single starting point.
New York Public Library
In Greece, sandals were worn by the wealthy, leaving most people with no choice but the bare foot. As a result, Greek sandals were often worn for appearances and decorated with fancy designs. The height and color of sandals were also a representation of social class. However, for women, who were not allowed to wear more than three clothing items in a day, the choice was usually barefoot. But, when betrothed, the rule was extended to allow the bride-to-be to wear the traditional dyed white sandal. Could you limit your clothing choice to three items on any given day?
The Egyptians also used the sandal as a class divide. Wealthy leaders in the community were identified by the adornments on their sandals and while they attended to official duties, their sandals were removed and carried by servants. Later, sandals evolved in style and material and become more widely acceptable for all. As a result, sandal makers made their living meeting the supply and demand for all classes. These craftsmen created styles made from mixed animals hides with thick inner and outer soles that were sewn together with waxed thread and colored dyes made from vegetable oils. Some were also made out of papyrus, while more labor-intensive woven styles were found inside the tomb of Pharaohs like King Tut. Egyptian culture has a long, historical connection to the sandal.
In India, sandals were inspired by materials traded from many other countries and eventually became a common choice of footwear. Early on, during the Spice and Silk trade route era, sandals were made of straw and wood. They were roughly cut and held on the foot by a stub cut between the big and second toes. More elaborately cut styles were decorated with inlaid ivory and reserved for the wealthy class. Today, in rural areas, you can still find craftsmen making The Chappals, as they are called, which is a leather, t-strap style sandal.
In Japan, during the 1st century, the sandal was referred to as Zori. They were made of straw with a leather thong in between the first and second toes. They were worn with a tabi, a white cotton foot covering similar to a sock. A double soled zori was given as an engagement gift from the groom to his future bride. During the Edo period, Getas became fashionable. This wooden platform shoe was worn barefoot but included a woven tatami insole for more comfort. During the Futal Era, Samurai Soldiers wore the waraji. This special type of sandal was woven and tied according to status.
The idea of the sandal in general is to free the foot from the constraints of an enclosed shoe. This influence came from the unexpected source of author and poet, Edward Carpenter who hated normal shoes and believed that they were the same as wearing a coffin on the foot. He designed and introduced his strappy style in Britain during the Victorian era when he wrote “The Simplification of Life.” His sandal was in fact simple, but you can see from the photo he also complicated the look by wearing socks. Was he the first to make this fashion mistake? No socks with sandals please!
Here in the US, the earliest noted sandal dates back 10,000 years. It was made from sagebrush bark and was found in the state of Oregon. However, as with many fashion trends, the modern American sandal took it cues from Hollywood throughout the 20th century.
The silent film era brought about many biblical themed movies. Designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo were masters at creating themed sandals for hundreds of cast members in these epic tales even though the looks were far from historically accurate. As the actresses began wearing their “bible sandals” away from the sets, the strappy sandal became a trendy new look. As films evolved into talkies and hemlines rose, Ferragamo gave the sandal a fresh look with the peek-a-boo toe and wedge heel.
Swimsuits are at the center of attention during this long, hot summer. However, the swimsuit you are wearing today has a long evolution of history behind it.
In ancient Rome there was no such thing as swimsuits at all. Men and women bathed nude in “bath houses.” It was not an activity for fun, but rather necessary for hygiene. Mostly, it was done privately and in one’s own home, but there were also public bath houses where men and women gathered in gender-specific facilities, fully nude. Think public swimming pool in the nude. YIKES! Modesty was not an issue. As evident in their art, the Romans had a fascination with the human body and had no problem being on display in these ancient bath houses.
However, by the 1800’s coverage and modesty were expected, especially for women. Bathing gowns were the standard and were cut so large that they hardly showed off any curves in the body. These gowns were also made of wool which was too heavy and restricting for actual swimming.
In the 1900’s, bloomers made their debut. This suit was inspired by women’s rights activist, Amelia Bloomer. It was made with much lighter fabric, in a two-piece style with pants cut at the knee and a loose-fitting top. Despite the lighter fabric it was still difficult to move around in. Controversary surrounded the bloomers because it included pants which were only supposed to be worn by men at the time.
Competitive swimmer, Annette Kellerman, made her own adjustments to the swimsuit and was actually arrested for sporting her swimsuit pant which was a full body, one piece that allowed her to move more freely in the water. It was considered too form fitting and suitable only for men to wear pants.
As the Olympics gained popularity, competitive swimsuits were designed to improve movement and speed. They were cut from sheer fabric and became more form fitting, covering less and less of the body.
Perhaps the most popular evolution in the bathing suit came about in the most unusual circumstance. Designer, Louis Réard, dropped a bomb on the fashion industry when he introduced the bikini. The new, daring style was named after the Bikini Atoll Island where the nuclear bomb tests were taking place. His skimpy and revealing two-piece caught on quickly but not without much controversy. Many women refused to wear it. But, once Hollywood stars embraced it, women around the globe soon followed.
Today swimsuits vary in style and fabrics. Nylon and latex fabrics have made the suits more breathable and comfortable for all levels of activity. Gone are the long, bulky, wool swim dresses of the past.
Bring It Forward
As with all fashion, there are lots of styles and choices available today. Here are some tips to help you choose the best style for your body type.
TWO PIECE First, choose a swimsuit top that is comfortable. If you have to constantly pull your bathing suit top up or down, it does not fit properly. At the same time, a proper fit compliments your figure.
If you have a full bust, it’s best to wear V-neck style tops
If you have a small bust, a push-up top would be the best choice.
Make sure your bottom choice fits snug, but is not too tight. You don’t want the bottom to slip down while swimming and you don’t want an uncomfortable “wedgie” while walking on the beach either.
ONE PIECE One-piece suits also need a snug fit. You don’t want baggy or tight areas. The suit should conform and follow your curves in a flattering way.
Match A Suit To Your Shape
Rectangle= cut off the waistline by using ruffles or a waist band Pear= Even out the upper part of your body by using ruffles Strawberry= Best to wear a swim dress or a skirt to even out the lower part of your body Hour glass= Lucky you…any bathing suit suits you
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It might seem crazy that centuries ago women were not “allowed” to wear short skirts or even pants, but it is true. The ups and downs of hem trends have a direct connection to historical events. Following the hem lengths throughout our modern history shows how moments in time set the standard for fashion trends of the day.
Let’s start with the Victorian era. Victorian skirt lengths went all the way down to the floor with full coverage of the legs. While the lower body was fully covered, the upper body was form fitted at the waist and bust. It was quite acceptable to expose shoulders and cleavage, especially in formal wear, but skirts required full length.
In the 1910’s the Hobble skirt became popular. The skirt was wider at the hips and then narrowed below the knees requiring a woman to hobble as she walked. This made the hips look bigger but restricted the movement of the lower legs so much so that many woman had stumbling and falling accidents due to the restrictions around the legs of the skirt. Needless to say, the trend faded quickly.
By the 1920’s skirts became less restrictive and more comfortable as the flapper style became widely popular. This style focusses on trying to create a flat chest and square hips as a way of rebelling against the feminine style that came before it.
In the next decade of the 1930’s, hemlines were worn between the ankles and knees with waistlines reverting back to the more feminine form. It was the time following the great depression where style was not as important. Most women were just happy to have cloths on their back. Make do with what you have was the style.
During the war years of the 1940’s, skirts below the knee were back in. Women were choosing styles based on comfort. However, due to rationing of resources during the war, fabric was not readily available and skirts lengths were shortened to just below the knee. The hem itself was requested to be no wider than 2 inches so as not to waste fabric.
After the war years, as the 50’s rolled in, fabric was once again plentiful. Skirts in a longer “tea length” became popular. Some were form fitting, extra long and drew attention to the feminine hour glass shape. Others were more full, flowing or pleated.
By the 1960’s the Miniskirt made its debut as teenagers wanted to rebel from the standards set by their parents. It also caused a huge uproar as the previous generation shamed the young women who would wear them. As a result, there were protests in order to stop this kind of reticule, and miniskirts became more popular than ever.
After the mini skirt, the 70s introduced an even shorter version, called the micro.
The rise and fall of hem lengths over the years are a direct reflection of moments in history. Today, variations of all these styles can still be seen as we freely match the length with our activity, personal style or comfort level. Freedom to choose any length is the current style.
BRINGING IT FORWARD
Here is a breakdown of fashion vocab for hemlines • MICRO SKIRT– it is the shortest hemline and is best suited for night clubs or parties.
• MINI- Sometimes a tricky length. Is it too short for work? In some jobs, if paired with leggings or the right boot it can be acceptable. Mostly you have to judge by your own comfort level. If you can rock it with confidence wear it, but if you’re pulling it down and tugging at it as you walk or work, it’s best to go longer.
• KNEE LENGTH OR BELOW KNEE – The perfect choice for work. Always a safe, sharp, professional look. Your choice of flats, heels or boots changes the look as well.
• MIDI AND MAXI – A trendy popular choice right now for sundresses and every day wear.
• ANKLE AND FLOOR LENGTH – reserved for more formal events.
In addition to the length, skirts can range from form fitting to loose, flowing and flirty in all lengths so, there is much to consider when making the choice. As always, choose a length and style that is most comfortable for you.
Out of necessity, humans have always had the need to carry essential items in small bags. The early hunter-gatherers used pouches made from primitive fibers to carry their tools and daily food finds.
During the Roman Era both men and women used drawstring bags that were worn on their belts; similar to the modern day “fanny pack”.
The term” pocketbook” comes from the 18th century when women tied a seperate pocket garment under their skirts. However, as fashion trends changed and dresses became more form fitting, the pocket undergarment was more visable and considered improper because it was as if you were showing the lines of your “undies.” It’s at this time that women began to carry a seperate bag for personal items such as rouge, powder and perfume. This bag was called a reticule or indispensable
By the 1900’s women were gaining more freedom and spending more time outside the home for longer periods of time. This required a more functional bag to carry more than just makeup. Department stores began to offer more selection and variety to fit the need that women were demanding.
Today, we have different styles that range from the sporty back pack to the formal clutch. We see the bag as an essential part of the activity and the outfit. The history of the handbag tells the story of women and how their tastes, needs and preferences have changed.
BRINGING IT FORWARD
It helps to have at least one bag that is your grab and go. It should be neutral or black so that it can go from day to night if needed. Changing purses for every event can be a hassle. Here’s a tip. Organize your items into small bags and practice using “bags within a bag.” Put all your make-up in one small bag, medicine in another and pens, pencil, notepad in another. Separate like items into bags and categories as needed. Then, when you need to switch purses you can pick and choose which “little bags” go inside to get you through the particular event. This makes the change over quick and easy.
Finally, when you can, invest in at leat one classic designer bag that will remain timeless. Here is a link to help you find one thats right for you. Find Your “IT” Bag
fashionpastforward.com 