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Slip Into the History of the Simple Sandal

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The next time you slip on your favorite summer sandal, you won’t take this easy style for granted as you discover its complex, historical path.  The history of sandals has deep-rooted origins in a number of countries with so many variations that’s it’s hard to pin-point one single starting point. 

New York Public Library

In Greece, sandals were worn by the wealthy, leaving most people with no choice but the bare foot.  As a result, Greek sandals were often worn for appearances and decorated with fancy designs. The height and color of sandals were also a representation of social class. However, for women, who were not allowed to wear more than three clothing items in a day, the choice was usually barefoot. But, when betrothed, the rule was extended to allow the bride-to-be to wear the traditional dyed white sandal. Could you limit your clothing choice to three items on any given day?

The Egyptians also used the sandal as a class divide.  Wealthy leaders in the community were identified by the adornments on their sandals and while they attended to official duties, their sandals were removed and carried by servants.  Later, sandals evolved in style and material and become more widely acceptable for all. As a result, sandal makers made their living meeting the supply and demand for all classes. These craftsmen created styles made from mixed animals hides with thick inner and outer soles that were sewn together with waxed thread and colored dyes made from vegetable oils. Some were also made out of papyrus, while more labor-intensive woven styles were found inside the tomb of Pharaohs like King Tut. Egyptian culture has a long, historical connection to the sandal.

In India, sandals were inspired by materials traded from many other countries and eventually became a common choice of footwear. Early on, during the Spice and Silk trade route era, sandals were made of straw and wood.  They were roughly cut and held on the foot by a stub cut between the big and second toes. More elaborately cut styles were decorated with inlaid ivory and reserved for the wealthy class. Today, in rural areas, you can still find craftsmen making The Chappals, as they are called, which is a leather, t-strap style sandal.

In Japan, during the 1st century, the sandal was referred to as Zori.  They were made of straw with a leather thong in between the first and second toes. They were worn with a tabi, a white cotton foot covering similar to a sock. A double soled zori was given as an engagement gift from the groom to his future bride. During the Edo period, Getas became fashionable. This wooden platform shoe was worn barefoot but included a woven tatami insole for more comfort. During the Futal Era, Samurai Soldiers wore the waraji. This special type of sandal was woven and tied according to status.

The idea of the sandal in general is to free the foot from the constraints of an enclosed shoe. This influence came from the unexpected source of author and poet, Edward Carpenter who hated normal shoes and believed that they were the same as wearing a coffin on the foot. He designed and introduced his strappy style in Britain during the Victorian era when he wrote “The Simplification of Life.”  His sandal was in fact simple, but you can see from the photo he also complicated the look by wearing socks. Was he the first to make this fashion mistake? No socks with sandals please! 

Here in the US, the earliest noted sandal dates back 10,000 years. It was made from sagebrush bark and was found in the state of Oregon.  However, as with many fashion trends, the modern American sandal took it cues from Hollywood throughout the 20 th century.

The silent film era brought about many biblical themed movies. Designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo were masters at creating themed sandals for hundreds of cast members in these epic tales even though the looks were far from historically accurate.  As the actresses began wearing their “bible sandals” away from the sets, the strappy sandal became a trendy new look. As films evolved into talkies and hemlines rose, Ferragamo gave the sandal a fresh look with the peek-a-boo toe and wedge heel. 

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Swimming In Swimsuit History

Swimsuits are at the center of attention during this long, hot summer. However, the swimsuit you are wearing today has a long evolution of history behind it.

In ancient Rome there was no such thing as swimsuits at all. Men and women bathed nude in “bath houses.” It was not an activity for fun, but rather necessary for hygiene. Mostly, it was done privately and in one’s own home, but there were also public bath houses where men and women gathered in gender-specific facilities, fully nude. Think public swimming pool in the nude. YIKES! Modesty was not an issue. As evident in their art, the Romans had a fascination with the human body and had no problem being on display in these ancient bath houses.

However, by the 1800’s coverage and modesty were expected, especially for women. Bathing gowns were the standard and were cut so large that they hardly showed off any curves in the body.  These gowns were also made of wool which was too heavy and restricting for actual swimming.  

In the 1900’s, bloomers made their debut. This suit was inspired by women’s rights activist, Amelia Bloomer. It was made with much lighter fabric, in a two-piece style with pants cut at the knee and a loose-fitting top. Despite the lighter fabric it was still difficult to move around in. Controversary surrounded the bloomers because it included pants which were only supposed to be worn by men at the time. 

Competitive swimmer, Annette Kellerman, made her own adjustments to the swimsuit and was actually arrested for sporting her swimsuit pant which was a full body, one piece that allowed her to move more freely in the water. It was considered too form fitting and suitable only for men to wear pants. 

As the Olympics gained popularity, competitive swimsuits were designed to improve movement and speed. They were cut from sheer fabric and became more form fitting, covering less and less of the body.

Perhaps the most popular evolution in the bathing suit came about in the most unusual circumstance. Designer, Louis Réard, dropped a bomb on the fashion industry when he introduced the bikini. The new, daring style was named after the Bikini Atoll Island where the nuclear bomb tests were taking place. His skimpy and revealing two-piece caught on quickly but not without much controversy. Many women refused to wear it. But, once Hollywood stars embraced it, women around the globe soon followed. 

Today swimsuits vary in style and fabrics.  Nylon and latex fabrics have made the suits more breathable and comfortable for all levels of activity. Gone are the long, bulky, wool swim dresses of the past. 

Bring It Forward

As with all fashion, there are lots of styles and choices available today. Here are some tips to help you choose the best style for your body type.

TWO PIECE
First, choose a swimsuit top that is comfortable. If you have to constantly pull your bathing suit top up or down, it does not fit properly. At the same time, a proper fit compliments your figure.

If you have a full bust, it’s best to wear V-neck style tops

If you have a small bust, a push-up top would be the best choice.

Make sure your bottom choice fits snug, but is not too tight.  You don’t want the bottom to slip down while swimming and you don’t want an uncomfortable “wedgie” while walking on the beach either.

ONE PIECE
One-piece suits also need a snug fit. You don’t want baggy or tight areas.  The suit should conform and follow your curves in a flattering way. 

Match A Suit To Your Shape

Rectangle= cut off the waistline by using ruffles or a waist band
Pear= Even out the upper part of your body by using ruffles
Strawberry= Best to wear a swim dress or a skirt to even out the
lower part of your body
Hour glass= Lucky you…any bathing suit suits you

LEARN MORE

More History of the Swimsuit
Find the Right Fit
More About Amelia Bloomer
More About Annette Kellerman

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Skirting The Issue Of Hemlines

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It might seem crazy that centuries ago women were not “allowed” to wear short skirts or even pants, but it is true. The ups and downs of hem trends have a direct connection to historical events. Following the hem lengths throughout our modern history shows how moments in time set the standard for fashion trends of the day.

Let’s start with the Victorian era. Victorian skirt lengths went all the way down to the floor with full coverage of the legs. While the lower body was fully covered, the upper body was form fitted at the waist and bust. It was quite acceptable to expose shoulders and cleavage, especially in formal wear, but skirts required full length.

In the 1910’s the Hobble skirt became popular. The skirt was wider at the hips and then narrowed below the knees requiring a woman to hobble as she walked. This made the hips look bigger but restricted the movement of the lower legs so much so that many woman had stumbling and falling accidents due to the restrictions around the legs of the skirt. Needless to say, the trend faded quickly.

By the 1920’s skirts became less restrictive and more comfortable as the flapper style became widely popular. This style focusses on trying to create a flat chest and square hips as a way of rebelling against the feminine style that came before it.

In the next decade of the 1930’s, hemlines were worn between the ankles and knees with waistlines reverting back to the more feminine form.  It was the time following the great depression where style was not as important. Most women were just happy to have cloths on their back. Make do with what you have was the style.

During the war years of the 1940’s, skirts below the knee were back in. Women were choosing styles based on comfort. However, due to rationing of resources during the war, fabric was not readily available and skirts lengths were shortened to just below the knee. The hem itself was requested to be no wider than 2 inches so as not to waste fabric.

After the war years, as the 50’s rolled in, fabric was once again plentiful. Skirts in a longer “tea length” became popular. Some were form fitting, extra long and drew attention to the feminine hour glass shape. Others were more full, flowing or pleated.

By the 1960’s the Miniskirt made its debut as teenagers wanted to rebel from the standards set by their parents. It also caused a huge uproar as the previous generation shamed the young women who would wear them. As a result, there were protests in order to stop this kind of reticule, and miniskirts became more popular than ever.

After the mini skirt, the 70s introduced an even shorter version, called the micro.

The rise and fall of hem lengths over the years are a direct reflection of moments in history. Today, variations of all these styles can still be seen as we freely match the length with our activity, personal style or comfort level. Freedom to choose any length is the current style.

BRINGING IT FORWARD

Here is a breakdown of fashion vocab for hemlines
• MICRO SKIRT– it is the shortest hemline and is best suited for night clubs or parties.

• MINI- Sometimes a tricky length. Is it too short for work? In some jobs, if paired with leggings or the right boot it can be acceptable. Mostly you have to judge by your own comfort level. If you can rock it with confidence wear it, but if you’re pulling it down and tugging at it as you walk or work, it’s best to go longer.

• KNEE LENGTH OR BELOW KNEE – The perfect choice for work. Always a safe, sharp, professional look. Your choice of flats, heels or boots changes the look as well.

• MIDI AND MAXI – A trendy popular choice right now for sundresses and every day wear.

• ANKLE AND FLOOR LENGTH – reserved for more formal events.

In addition to the length, skirts can range from form fitting to loose, flowing and flirty in all lengths so, there is much to consider when making the choice. As always, choose a length and style that is most comfortable for you.

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How To Handle Handbags

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Out of necessity, humans have always had the need to carry essential items in small bags. The early hunter-gatherers used pouches made from primitive fibers to carry their tools and daily food finds.

During the Roman Era both men and women used drawstring bags that were worn on their belts; similar to the modern day “fanny pack”.

The term” pocketbook” comes from the 18th century when women tied a seperate pocket garment under their skirts. However, as fashion trends changed and dresses became more form fitting, the pocket undergarment was more visable and considered improper because it was as if you were showing the lines of your “undies.” It’s at this time that women began to carry a seperate bag for personal items such as rouge, powder and perfume. This bag was called a reticule or indispensable

By the 1900’s women were gaining more freedom and spending more time outside the home for longer periods of time. This required a more functional bag to carry more than just makeup. Department stores began to offer more selection and variety to fit the need that women were demanding.

Today, we have different styles that range from the sporty back pack to the formal clutch. We see the bag as an essential part of the activity and the outfit. The history of the handbag tells the story of women and how their tastes, needs and preferences have changed.

BRINGING IT FORWARD

It helps to have at least one bag that is your grab and go. It should be neutral or black so that it can go from day to night if needed. Changing purses for every event can be a hassle. Here’s a tip. Organize your items into small bags and practice using “bags within a bag.” Put all your make-up in one small bag, medicine in another and pens, pencil, notepad in another. Separate like items into bags and categories as needed. Then, when you need to switch purses you can pick and choose which “little bags” go inside to get you through the particular event. This makes the change over quick and easy.

Finally, when you can, invest in at leat one classic designer bag that will remain timeless. Here is a link to help you find one thats right for you. Find Your “IT” Bag

AFFORDABLE OPTIONS YOU CAN BUY NOW

Show us your favorite handbag. Comment below

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Getting Down To Business Suits

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I recently started making a transition in my wardrobe from college casual to professional business attire. It made me think about the history of workplace dress codes throughout the ages.

I discovered that during the Hellenistic Greek period men were hired as “Controllers of Women.” Can you believe that? These “controllers” were hired to ensure women dressed appropriately modest and did not spend too much money on clothing. The “controllers” were chosen to enforce strict dress codes for women during festivals and public events. This was a strange practice that would never, and rightly so, be acceptable by today’s standards.

Later, during the plague, Charles II ordered his all of his nobles to dress the same in preapproved tunics and britches. This was the first time that strict dress codes were enforced on the job.

For women during the Victorian era, the tight fitting corsets kept women from being active just by the mere restraint of not being able to breath. They were also required to change clothes several times within the day to meet the dress standards for each activity. Morning clothes were distinctively different from afternoon tea or dinner dresses. Can you imagine having to go through the hassle of changing layers and upon layers of clothes for every activity in your day?

Tailoring for a perfect fit came about in the 1800’s and it was originally for men who had to attend formal events. Eventually, Savile Row, London’s famous tailoring shop, fitted suits specfically for civilians in the work force and the business suit became a trend that every man had to wear while on the job.

Luckily today we have much more flexibility and control of our own style on the job. But, some dress code rules never go out of style. Here are a few things to remember when choosing the right professional look.

  • Keep it sharp. Don’t wear wrinkled or dirty clothes
  • Get the right fit. Don’t wear anything too tight or revealing
  • Dress for the job you want. Don’t wear your club clothes to work.
  • Casual Friday doesn’t mean anything goes. Don’t wear t-shirts or messages on your clothing.
  • Dress with style but also for comfort. You will be more productive if you are comfortable in well fitting clothes while showing a little bit of your own style in a professional way.

LEARN MORE

HISTORY OF BUSINESS SUITS

THE FASCINATING HISTORY OF WOMEN WEARING SUITS

WHAT NOT TO WEAR

Show us your favorite business attire?
Comment below

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Getting High On Heels … Then and Now

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Today, women stack their closets with heels of all heights. But, did you know men were high on heels well before women? In the 15th century soldiers stayed mounted on horseback by locking their heels into the stirrups. Later, the trend was adapted by wealthy European men who wanted to impress others by appearing taller. The height of the heel was a symbol of wealth.

The trend carried over to European women who also viewed height as a symbol of wealth. In the 15th century women of Venice hid their towering pedestal-like shoes under long flowing gowns. The higher the pedestal the longer the dress, both indicating wealth in society.

For women today, one of the most popular choices is not so much about the height of the heel, but rather the color of the red sole from Louboutin. However, King Louis XIV started his own trend of red soles shoes for his royal court way back in 1673. Our modern day King of high heels, Louboutin, adopted his red sole trend after first trading the boring black sole for pink. But, later changed it to his signature color, as he witnessed his assistant painting her nails a deep red. It stands today as his way of making women feel confident and beautiful.

BRINGING IT FORWARD

A few points to remember when choosing the right heel. First, choose for comfort because a high heel with an awkward or painful walk doesn’t look good on anyone. To give yourself height don’t just think about the heel. The front of the shoe matters too. Pointed toes make petits look taller and rounded toes can be a better choice for taller women. Finally, remember, a high heel pump can add a spark or pop of color to any outfit…
red sole or not!

Show us your favorite heels of any height.
Comment below.