Author: Avera

This American fashion designer and writer, made significant contributions to the fashion industry in the mid-20th century. Elizabeth Hawes was born on December 16, 1903, in Ridgewood, New Jersey, to a progressive family. Her father was an architect, and her mother was a women’s rights activist. This upbringing in an intellectually stimulating environment influenced her future career in fashion and her commitment to women’s rights.

Hawes began her fashion career as a copywriter for a New York department store. She later worked as a fashion journalist and editor, gaining insights into the fashion industry. In 1928, she established her own fashion company, Hawes, Inc., which allowed her to create designs according to her own ideals.

Hawes’ impact on the fashion industry was ground breaking. She was a strong advocate for individuality and believed in designing clothing that suited the unique personality and lifestyle of each woman. This is one of many reasons why her vintage pieces are still sought after today. She supported fashion houses that made unconventional clothing. In fact, while Elizabeth Hawes was working in Paris, she regularly wore garments from the fashion house Callot Soeurs. Hawes insisted that people should wear what they personally liked, not what was considered fashionable.

This was important because buyers at the time considered Callot Soeurs’ dresses out of date and unfashionable. However, Hawes happily wore their “simple clothes with wonderful embroidery” that lasted for several years. She was also notable for being among the many early designers to champion ready-to-wear clothing, aiming to make high-quality fashion accessible to a broader audience. Vintage Hawes ready-to-wear pieces reflect this innovative approach. Vintage Hawes pieces are appreciated for their usability and versatility. She believed in practical, functional fashion, incorporating features like pockets, removable collars, and reversible designs. These distinct features make her designs more comfy and casual. Hawes’ legacy continues to influence contemporary designers who appreciate her emphasis on individual expression and functionality in fashion. Her vintage pieces are treasured for their unique and forward-thinking design principles.

This American Fashion designer was best known for his ballgowns and highly structured aesthetic. Born in 1906, in Surrey, England, James was a British army officer and instructor at Royal Military Academy Sandhurst. His mother, Louise Enders Brega, came from a wealthy Chicago family. He was educated at the New Beacon in Sevenoaks. At the age of 19 he opened a millinery shop in Chicago in 1926, he did it under the name Charles Boucheron because his dad refused to let him use the family name. By 1930, he had designed the spiral zipped dress and the taxi dress which was given that name because it was “so easy to wear it could be slipped on in the backseat of a taxi”.

From New York, James moved to London, setting up shop in Mayfair. It was there, that he designed wedding dresses. James created a modern interpretation of the white wedding dress, with a raised neckline and divided train. In 1936, he established the company, Charles James London, Ltd., using his own name officially for the first time. He showed his first collection in the French capital in 1937. That same year, he created a one-of-a-kind white satin quilted jacket described by Salvador Dali as “the first soft sculpture”. James moved permanently to New York in 1939 where he established Charles James, Inc. At the end of the Second World War he designed a clothing line for Elizabeth Arden. He died at 72, from pneumonia in 1978.

Charles James had a significant impact on the fashion industry. He was renowned for his exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Many contemporary fashion designers cite Charles James as a source of inspiration. He played a significant role in redefining evening wear, by elevating it to a level of sophistication and elegance that continues to influence modern formal and red-carpet fashion. James’ designs were often described as architectural due to their sculptural shapes and precise construction. His gowns pushed the boundaries of fashion, blurring the lines between clothing and art. Vintage Charles James pieces are considered collector’s items for their artistic and structural qualities. Charles James’ impact on the vintage fashion industry is characterized by his mastery of couture, his innovative designs, and his enduring influence on contemporary fashion. His creations remain iconic in the vintage industry today and continue to be celebrated as works of art in the world of vintage fashion.

This fashion designer was renowned for his iconic minimalist designs. Calvin Klein was born on November 19, 1942, in the Bronx, New York City. He grew up in a middle-class Jewish family. His mother was a homemaker, and his father worked as a grocery store owner. Klein’s favorite thing to do was sketching. He would sketch redesigns of his own cloths. This sparked his early interest in fashion. Klein’s journey to becoming a designer started in 1962 when he attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. After he refined his fashion skills, he worked as an apprentice for several fashion houses. In 1968, he launched his own company with childhood friend Barry Schwartz.

He made an immense impact on the fashion industry for many reasons. He introduced a minimalist design philosophy characterized by clean lines, neutral colors, and a focus on simplicity. His designs were a stark departure from the elaborate styles of the 1970s. Klein is credited with popularizing designer jeans in the 1970s, with his iconic “Calvin Klein Jeans” line. His provocative advertising campaigns, featuring famous models and celebrities, made a lasting impression. He also introduced Calvin Klein underwear in the 1980s, with its simple, logo-branded waistband. It became a global sensation and set a new standard for underwear marketing. In addition to his denim and underwear lines, Klein developed high-end collections for men and women, solidifying his status as a top American fashion designer. He was one of the first fashion designers to openly support LGBTQ+ causes and feature openly gay models in his ad campaigns. Klein’s provocative and controversial advertising campaigns pushed boundaries and sparked discussions about sexuality, making a lasting impact on advertising in the fashion industry.

Calvin Klein’s influence on fashion lies in his ability to create timeless, modern, and accessible designs that resonate with a wide audience. His simplistic designs and advertising techniques are still used today.

Vintage fashion enthusiasts often seek out Calvin Klein pieces as a way to connect with the fashion of their youth or to explore the styles of the 70’s and 80’s. The brand’s vintage items evoke a sense of nostalgia and timeless elegance from that era. Vintage Calvin Klein pieces are not only fashion treasures but also cultural artifacts that continue to hold value and relevance.

This American fashion designer was known for her innovative and surreal designs. Elsa Schiaparelli was born on September 10, 1890 in Rome, Italy. Her uncle, the famous astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli, grew up in a privileged family and had a sheltered upbringing. But, he inspired her to become an artist. From there, her creative spark began to ignite.

Schiaparelli had an unconventional start to her fashion career. She initially pursued a career in philosophy but later moved to London and began working as a translator. Her introduction to the world of fashion happened when she moved to Paris in the 1920s. There, she started designing knitwear, known for its vibrant colors and unusual patterns. Her success in this niche market eventually led her to open her boutique in Paris in 1927.

Schiaparelli had an enormous impact on the fashion industry. One example is her unique designs. She collaborated with artists like Salvador Dalí, to help make her surrealist designs. This gave her work a whimsical and imaginative look. She also experimented with new fabrics and materials, introducing innovative textiles like cellophane and rayon. She was also famous for designing bold and eccentric accessories, such as oversized jewelry and gloves with decorative zippers. This new take on fashion accessories made her famous for pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion. She popularized the use of zippers in clothing which was a bold fashion choice at the time. She even introduced wrap dresses and created designs that were more functional and comfortable. Lastly, She became one of the leading figures in the haute couture scene in Paris, known for her avant-garde designs and impeccable craftsmanship.

Elsa Schiaparelli became famous for blending elements of surreal creativity, and innovation. Her designs challenged traditional fashion norms, and her legacy continues to influence contemporary designers today.

This American fashion designer’s impact on the fashion industry was so profound that people still use her designs today. Coco Chanel was born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. She had a challenging upbringing because she was born into an impoverished family. After her mother’s death, her father left her and her siblings in an orphanage. There she learned to sew, which sparked her interest in fashion.

Her life and career were marked by remarkable achievements and influence. In her early 20s, she started working as a seamstress and hat-maker. It was there that she was given the name Coco. Her simple practical designs caught the attention of wealthy clients, and she opened her first boutique in 1910. She initially began selling hats, but as her skills improved, she became known for selling clothing.

Chanel is considered a legendary figure in the fashion industry. She championed comfortable, yet stylish clothing, challenging the corsets and restrictive attire of the early 20th century by creating the famous “Chanel Suit” which pioneered the concept of a relaxed and elegant suit for women. Chanel also revolutionized fashion by creating the “Little Black Dress,” in 1926, a timeless and versatile wardrobe staple that never goes out of style. She utilized jersey fabric, traditionally used for men’s undergarments, in her designs. She also introduced iconic accessories, such as the quilted handbag with a chain strap.

Chanel’s impact on the fashion world changed women’s fashion by giving them more comfortable and liberating options. Her legacy continues to influence designers and fashion trends. The Chanel brand remains a symbol of timeless style and luxury even today.

This American fashion designer pioneered the industry with her innovative designs and her passion for fashion. Claire McCardell was born on May 24, 1905, in Frederick, Maryland. Her mother, a dressmaker, played a significant role in nurturing her interest and encouraging her creativity. McCardell’s childhood exposure to her mother’s work inspired her future career in the fashion industry. After completing her education at Hood College, in Maryland, McCardell moved to New York City in the late 1920s to pursue her dream of becoming a fashion designer.

She enrolled at the Parsons School of Design where she honed her skills as a fashion designer. McCardell’s early career was marked by her work as a model and assistant designer for Robert Turk. This experience gave her valuable insight into the fashion industry. It even gave her a chance to refine her aesthetic as a designer. In 1931, McCardell joined the prestigious Townley Frocks, a leading fashion house known for its innovative designs. During this time, she became famous for creating stylish yet practical designs, that catered to modern women. Claire Mcardell was important to the fashion industry because she pioneered the concept of the “American Look”. Emphasizing casual elegance and ease of movement. McCardell revolutionized women’s fashion, by giving women a variety of comfortable and versatile looks. McCardell’s signature designs, such as the “Popover Dress” and the “Monastic Dress,” are considered iconic pieces that epitomize her design philosophy.

Today Vintage shoppers admire her innovative design and techniques such as adjustable waistbands and hidden pockets. They also admire the functionality of her clothing as well. McCardell’s emphasis on using affordable fabrics has made her garments even more accessible to vintage shoppers. Her inactive and practical designs made her a trailblazer in the fashion world.

Vintage T-Shirts and Jeans are highly sought after in boutiques and thrift stores. Here are key details to look for in jeans through the decades.

1920s
Jeans from this area were high-waisted jeans with a loose, straight leg. You’ll see suspender buttons or side cinch straps instead of belt loops. Trousers were made from raw, selvedge denim with minimal branding. The pants were worn for work, not for style.

1930s
In the 30’s jeans were high-rise at the waist with a wider leg. Check for cinch-backs, which were adjustable straps at the back of the waistband. You’ll see single-needle stitching and donut buttons.

1940s
From this era, jeans were mid-rise with a straight leg. Patch pockets and a button fly were the typical style. The standardized denim used at the time didn’t shrink as much as raw denim.

1950s
In the 50’s jeans were back to high rise with a slim, tapered leg. Zippers replace the a button fly. And, the red tab on the back pocket, indicated the iconic Levi’s brand.

1960s
By the 60s low rise was the rebellion style with a slim, straight leg. A light wash with faded or distressed details were the trendy look. Levi change its logo and a small “e” on the red tab is present on jeans from the 60’s.

1970s
In this decade, jeans remain low rise but the flared leg or “bell bottom” was all the rage. Decorative stitching, embroidery, or patchwork were also popular. Jeans made in the 70’s have some stretch denim for a more fitted look.

1980s
In the 80s the style shifted back to high-rise with a straight or slightly tapered leg.
Acid-wash or stone-wash finishes were very popular during this decade.
Logo brands were prominently displayed on the back pocket.

1990s
Back in the 90’s, jeans were mid-rise with a relaxed, baggy fit. Wide legs or bootcut styles were the new trend. Distressed or ripped details were introduced by the grunge crowd.

By understanding the key characteristics of jeans from each decade, you can better identify and appreciate the unique features of vintage jeans while shopping.

If you enjoy the hippie look of the 60s you will be familiar with this fabric-dying technique that creates vibrant and colorful patterns. But, you may not know tie-dye’s history began long before that turbulent decade.

The earliest written records of tie-dye come from China and Japan when people used natural dyes from berries, leaves, roots, and flowers to color clothing. These natural items were boiled, and the fabric was then soaked in the hot, dyed water to take on a new color.

India had their version of tie-dye too. This process involves using thread to tie off small pieces of fabric in intricate patterns before dipping the fabric in dye. This method is the most popular and is still practiced today.

Tie-dye was originally called “resist dying” but the term changed during the 60s when America’s counterculture movement adopted the technique as a way to describe binding fabric before dying. It was popular with Americans because of its simple and inexpensive way to express creativity with a free and relaxed fashion style. Hippies and other artists adopted the technique because the patterns were often inspired by hallucinogenic drugs. Tie-dye was also popular with homemakers as DIY clothing kits became more accessible. Everyone was creating their own unique tie-dye patterns. The technique was incorporated in everything from T-shirts to bedspreads and soon became a commonly used pattern for clothing and home decor. The tie-dye look, was a new, fun way to create unique and vibrant patterns, contrary to the plain business looks of the 50’s. During this decade, designers began incorporating this look into their fashion shows, and tie-dye became an iconic theme for the era.

Today, tie dye has a simple design, with splotches of dyed or bleached areas. However, there is something about the tie-dye look that keeps people coming back to it. Each tie dye pattern is unique and bold in its own way. Next time you see a tie-dye shirt, take note of the natural patterns, and eye-catching colors.

Have you ever thought of adding a touch of Gingham to your wardrobe? Here is a brief history of how Gingham became a popular summer favorite. 

The Gingham we know today is usually presented in a checkered pattern of one color with white; however, the word Gingham originally referred to a striped fabric. The Dutch introduced it, traded it in England, and it soon gained worldwide popularity. 

During the early 20th century, Gingham became famous for children’s clothing. Young girls wore Gingham school uniforms, and boys wore Gingham rompers. However, during the Great Depression, Gingham soon gained popularity with adults because of its durability and low cost. Swimsuits and swim shorts were also made with the fabric, making Gingham a popular choice for beachwear. 

Celebrities also had a hand in Gingham’s popularity. Who could forget Judy Garland’s blue Gingham printed dress in “The Wizard of Oz.” Katherine Hepburn had a significant fashion moment wearing a Gingham printed dress in the hit film “The Philadelphia Story.” By the ’50s, Marilyn Monroe’s Gingham shirt, tied at the waist with jeans, became an iconic look for American women. Today, high-profile celebrities like Taylor Swift continue to make this pattern an on-the-go look. 

Gingham has multiple uses, from country tablecloths to flirty dresses. It is versatile, breathable, and comfortable. You can’t go wrong with adding Gingham to your summer wardrobe. 

Today we explore one of the top-selling garments in thrift shops, the Graphic Tee. For decades, Graphic Tees have been used to sell merchandise and promote brands.

This popular garment made its first appearance in the movie, “The Wizard Of Oz.” If you look closely, you will spot the workers in the Emerald City factory wearing bright green T-shirts promoting the city of Oz.

Originally this type of shirt was acceptable only as undergarments and commonly referred to as “jimshirts” or “skivvies”. The term “T-shirt” was coined by author F. Scott Fitzgerald in his book, “This Side Of Paradise,” a novel he wrote in 1920.

By the 60’s and 70’s, rock bands quickly realized that branded t-shirts could both promote the band and offer a second source of income. Apparel companies also decided to jump on this trend by branding shirts and designing full lines with printed logos in full view.

Today Graphic Tees 20 years or older are considered vintage and highly sought after. Next time you shop at your local thrift store, purchase a Graphic Tee to keep up with this popular trend.